On Friday, January 31st, we release our fourth collaboration with venerated leather jacket manufacturers Schott NYC. With each consecutive project, we've aimed to push the envelope a little bit further: to try new things and take bigger chances. We've felt comfortable with this approach largely because of the team we work with at Schott and the level of care they've applied to our projects over the years. We bring this up because making leather jackets is not a push-button endeavor. Leather hides are natural, organic materials and no two are alike. Obstacles come up in every stage of the process, from leather development to sampling to production. Jason, Don, Theresa, and Casey at Schott NYC have always stepped up and found solutions for every challenge we faced, and we are thankful for their support.
One of the central ways we continue to challenge ourselves each season is through custom leather development. Getting access to a world-class tannery like Horween (who we've written about in our Singularities series) is something a small brand like ours is very fortunate to have, as well as having someone at the helm like Nick - who understands our aesthetic and is able to transform our rough ideas into beautiful leathers. A second way we wanted to up the bar this season was to introduce a new silhouette to the mix. As such, we're proud to present not one, but two jacket styles this season: the Chromexcel Horsehide Perfecto and the Chromexcel Horsehide A-2.
Like previous iterations, the Horsehide Perfecto jacket is built off our favorite Schott double rider fit, the 519. The leather is a custom tannage made exclusively for this project by Horween Leather Company in Chicago, and is a tea-core chromexcel horsehide that starts out black but exhibits brown undertones as it’s worn. The hides have been heavily milled by Horween to give them a softer, more supple hand and to bring out those brown undertones. The chromexcel that you usually see in the wild has heavy pull-up and is shiny; this leather has a more weathered appearance with beautiful complexity of color which will continue to age over time. Due to the milling process, we've found that certain hides are a deeper black while others have already begun to exhibit the aging process of the leather - and in that regard, each jacket is unique. Over time, all of the jackets will break in the same way and show the beautiful brown undertones that we intended.
What’s new for the season is a modified A-2 flight jacket. We sat down with Schott for an afternoon and went through their military archives to find a fit that fell perfectly in line with 3sixteen’s aesthetic and came across one that we were thrilled with. We love vintage A-2's but were looking for a way to slightly modernize the silhouette. The arms are slim, and the body has been slightly lengthened without negatively affecting the higher-waisted look that a flight jacket should have. We chose to exclude the epaulets and added hidden side entries to the front flap pockets for the sake of practicality. Finally, we had Schott add a custom sheepskin collar that really finishes the jacket off; should the wearer want a cleaner look, the shearling collar is fully detachable.
This season, we’ve chosen to implement nickel hardware for some contrast. The zipper pulls have been updated to a stirrup shape which mirrors the pulls you’d find on our jackets and hoodies. Both jackets are lined with a Japanese brushed herringbone plaid flannel and bemberg in the sleeves; as the leather is on the heavier side, we wanted to ensure that the lining would not add further bulkiness to the jacket.
The Chromexcel Horsehide Perfecto and A-2 release on Friday, January 31st at noon EST. Both jackets retail for $1200 and are produced in limited quantities. You can find them here at 3sixteen.com and via the following stockists:
3sixteen (Los Angeles)
Berkeley Supply (Denver)
Blue Owl Workshop (Seattle)
Franklin & Poe (Philadelphia)
Mildblend Supply Co (Chicago)
Rivet & Hide (London/Manchester)
Schott NYC (New York/Los Angeles/Chicago/San Francisco)
Self Edge (New York/Los Angeles/Portland/San Francisco)
Snake Oil Provisions (Long Beach)
Withered Fig (Online)