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Crosscut Westerns.

Crosscut Westerns.
Two shirts in selvedge fleece lay on the floor.
A man stands against a wall wearing a black snap front shirt.

Photos: Joseph Chin

This Friday, we’re excited to be releasing a long-awaited restock to one of our most popular shirts we’ve ever made: the Selvedge Fleece Crosscut Western. Originally debuting as part of our FW17 season and selling out quickly after its release, we feel that the shirt was so well received due to the uniqueness of its fabric. Allow us to try and walk you through what makes it so special: while at first  glance it looks like rinsed denim, it’s actually a knit fabric from Nihon Menpu that features a twill face, selvedge edge, and contrasting yarns for the face and underside. The mill was somehow able to knit a fleece that mimics both the appearance and fade quality of denim. It’s hard to describe how comfortable this shirt is; it legitimately feels like you’re wearing a sweatshirt with buttons on it. To us, it’s the perfect intersection of comfort, dynamic aging, and heft.

A man in a blue shirt and rust colored chinos leans up against a wall.
Two shirts lay on a wooden floor.

While the first iteration of this shirt was manufactured in the United States, we opted for this second run to be manufactured with our production partner in India for a few reasons. First, this fabric has a very complicated shrink issue: when washed, it shrinks significantly in width and yet very little in length. What resulted on the first round in FW17 was a dry clean only shirt that needed special care over its lifetime. When we decided to run this shirt again, we spoke to Nihon Menpu about washing the fabric prior to sewing and while they were able to provide this service at a significant upcharge, further wash tests found that the fabric still shrank unpredictably after being sewn into a garment.

A man faces away from the camera in a black shirt.
A man sews a 3sixteen shirt at a sewing machine.

Our factory in India prides themselves on their ability to handle unique situations like the one we’re describing here. It’s predominantly made possible by the fact that they handle most of the work in-house at their facility, from patternmaking to sewing to washing. Their whole team can communicate with one another quickly and easily without a middleman (which would usually be us) which results in clear and efficient problem solving. In the US, our supply chain is broken into several vendors - our patternmaker works independently from our sewing factory, which also works independently from our wash house. This issue was too difficult to tackle stateside with so many handoffs. Secondly, our Indian factory is incredibly adept at dealing with fabric with slippage and stretch. Denim factories are not typically well suited to sew fleece and vice versa. When we sampled this shirt with our factory in India, we were blown away by how well they handled the fabric. Every seam is perfectly constructed and in some areas, we worked with them to update their construction techniques to better accommodate the intricacies of the fabric. The resulting shirt is a welcomed update on the previous iteration: it arrives to customers in the same great fabric but now pre-rinsed, pre-shrunk, and with beautiful finishing.

A man in a black shirt stands against a wall.
A man wears the indigo crosscut and looks intently into the camera.

While the original shirt came solely in a yarn-dyed indigo colorway, this time around we’re excited to launch a black version. It’s got a grey weft and unlike its indigo counterpart, will keep its dark hue as the shirt is worn and washed over time. Both styles feature custom concho snaps, crossed back yokes and selvedge detailing on the inner placket and side gusset. The Crosscut Western retails for $285 and launches on Friday, March 12th via participating retailers worldwide, all of which we've listed below for your convenience. They'll also launch on the same day via our NY and LA flagship stores; remaining units will post on 3sixteen.com the following Friday, March 19th.

Blue Owl (Seattle)
Black Blue (St. Paul)
City Workshop (Maplewood)
Cultizm (Online)
Earl's Authentics (Ketchum)
East + West (St. Louis)
Feinfracht (Basel)
Feinfracht (Bern)
Franklin & Poe (Philadelphia)
Guevel (Kansas City)
Homme Essentials (Richmond)
Indigo & Provisions (Christchurch)
Jeanslife (Winterthur)
Muddy George (Toronto)
Office Hours (San Luis Obispo)
Park & Province (Toronto)
Recall Clothing (Geneva)
Redcast Heritage (Madrid)
Self Edge (Los Angeles)
Self Edge (New York)
Self Edge (Portland)
Self Edge (San Francisco)
Silver Deer (Mexico City)
The Stockist (Salt Lake City)
Withered Fig (Online)